Issue 5 (November 2009)

Travel Namibia

Curious creatures - the desert beasts of Kunene • Essential guide to Etosha's waterholes • Discover the enchanting quiver tree • King of the road - can you drive Namibia? • Joanna Lumley and Namibia's cheetahs • The best sundowner spots • Rock art • A guide's diary • Accommodation, itineraries and much more!



Route Master
Namibia has 45,000 kilometres of open road that are crying out to be explored by anyone with just a little independent spirit. But with so much choice, where do you head on a fortnight-long trip? Iain Wallace put himself in the driving seat.
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All of a quiver
With its distinctive, quirky silhouette, the quiver tree is one of Namibia’s national symbols. Photographers Ann and Steve Toon are repeatedly drawn to a forest of the trees, some of which are reputed to be 300 years old.
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Guiding write
It made headline news: a young game ranger was attacked by two crocodiles and lost his left arm. Fifteen years on, Christiaan Bakkes has become one of Namibia’s most sort-after and colourful guides. Here, in an extract from his book In Bushveld and Desert: A Game Ranger’s Life,  he describes a safari on the Skeleton Coast.
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The Wild West
“Are there lions around?”
It’s not the first thing you expect to be asked when stopping to help with a breakdown in the desert. But then warnings to beware of elephants are not your typical traffic signs either. Welcome to the Kunene, a harsh but captivating land in Namibia’s remote northwest. Here, incredibly, some of the world’s most iconic wildlife has evolved to survive in the desert. Steve and Ann Toon went in search of them.
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Etosha Waterholes
Etosha has more than 30 easily-accessible waterholes where game gather in the dry winters. But at which one do you park up and wait for the action? Some holes are surrounded by mopane shrubs that the elephants love to eat and which provide shade for animals in the heat of the day. Other pools are favoured as they are open and safe from prowling lions. Some even have a bar from where you can buy a refreshing cold drink. We asked some of Etosha’s top guides to share their tips, and we’ve used these  to annotate the map over the page. Happy safari!
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